Guns and Blowin Shit Up!

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The new ruger PCs are great in the way you can change the magwell to accept glock mags. I won't get one unless they make it non take down. The older PCs are great, but they only take ruger mags.


The AR lower needs a different weight buffer to shoot pistol ammo, and I assume a different weight buffer spring. All else remains the same. But those parts are cheap, when in stock. Years ago I found a guy that was making AR lowers with special mag wells that took m3 grease gun mags. I should've bought multiple.


In modern times, the M3 grease gun has been referred to as the poor mans class III gun. Hella fun though.

[richkrt99]

 

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under the tacticool stock it looks like a Ruger

[richkrt99]

Well it's been a while so...


another day in the saga "As Rich's Reloading World Turns"...


forgot to take pics, but made some 5.56 ammo yesterday and last weekend.  (Finally got the Hornady #16 shell plate couple weeks ago).  I am now 100% complete on everything I need to load all the calibers I "currently" own.


Tested two loads with two different powders  (IMR-4064, H4198).  Didn't see a difference in performance, but just plinking and no accuracy test, and no chrono.
Ran my hopper dry of powder without noticing  and had to go back and check every one of the last 100 rounds.  Turns out only about 12 were empty.  I am used to loading 9mm so 5 grains goes a lot farther than 22g at a time.  I actually went back and weighed every single round and surprisingly all were within a couple grains (except those missing the powder)  I am using once-fired, mixed head stamp brass so not all the brass weighs exactly the same, but close.  (I did measure and trim these prior to loading)


Still haven't blown anything up so....so far so good 


3342 bullets rounds made thus far and counting... (fookin redneck)

[alta]

wait until you finally get a desert eagle, the .50AE takes 33 grains per round, 296 with magnum primers


mine do anyway

[richkrt99]

Good Lord...don't nunya rednecks shoot in the summer?


couple toy mods for you....


Ruger PC-carbine (9mm) with added hand stop on hand guard (I actually like this a lot)  Good grip assist without being bulky or in the way (you know....since I have little princess Cinderella hands)

[richkrt99]

and the Ruger with the ridiculous 32 round mag...

[richkrt99]

and don't forget the new Ft Smith 20 Gauge knock off.  Just picked this up yesterday.


Turkish made, and the finish is not what I'd call top shelf, but got this BRAND NEW in the box for $131 auction.  Didn't really expect to win it, but did.


I did not own a 20 ga.  This pump holds 7+1 3" shells.  Cycles really smooth.  Have not fired it yet.  Got to get some 20ga shells.  probably cost more for 100 shells than it did for the damn gun.


Someone around here got to be the honorable redneck and get another gun this year.

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I haven’t bought a gun since Virginia changed the law last year that basically eliminated private sales.


not that it matters, you gotta double my age to get the number of things in my safes. Which also means I can’t possibly shoot everything I’ve got in a year. A range session is several things I need to stay proficient with, then several other favorites, then maybe there is space and time for other things. Then there’s cleaning everything ...

[richkrt99]

Where da fook are all the rednecks on this site?


So.....since I went bonkers with reloading stuff this year (and a couple extra rifles), I can't justify another gun purchase this year


BUT.....


I have three sons with Birthday's in July (ages 20, 20, 18) so I got the bright idea I could feed my habit by building them each their OWN AR rifle 


Palmetto State Armory is now my favorite supplier.  If you have not used them check them out...their ownership has the proper mindset and they offer so much stuff in a variety of ways (partially built, completely built, just parts, etc).  I have now "built" 2 AR's using their parts and they are fabulous.  Great fit and finish, no problems, no rattle, and dirt cheap.  The first was actually just a completed upper (wanted to swap out on my original A2 handle AR to play with optics on a railed version).  Liked it so much I bought another upper and lower build kit and stripped lower.  loved it so much, and actually enjoyed doing it.....I wanted to do again.


I really like the M-lock railed upper.  It is a fairly narrow rail so easier to grip with my girly hands, plus it makes it easy to mount just about anything/everything you want to.
I have an original A2 style AR (with the carry handle, round foregrip, fixed stock) and I wanted to experiment with optics and other add ons utilizing a railed upper


So...PSA is so friggin awesome, I discovered they sell "blemished" parts which I have now purchase 5 of and on only one could I even find the blemish and it was inside the stripped lower (just a bit uneven finish on the inside - which nobody will EVER see unless they take apart the rifle.)


I have now "perfected" the purchase to a blemished completed upper and lower build kit for $399 paired with a blemished stripped lower for $79.  That's a $478 complete rifle (after assembly) with MBUS pop up sites, M-lok railed upper, Magpul MOE lower kit (buffer tube, handle, stock, etc).  I added a SigRomeo 5 red dot with shake-awake (which is awesome) for $129


This rifle cost me $478 to build, but it is a far better shooter than my original A2.  I'd say it is a mid-level AR product but at a very budget price for what you are getting.  If you want upgrades, PSA offers just about anything - heavier barrels, varied lengths, upgraded triggers, etc.  I was not really that big an AR junkie, but after putting a couple together.....I WILL be doing it again...and again...
Plus PSA makes most of their own stuff...they have grown exponentially over the years by providing quality products at fair (cheap) prices.  Their goal is to do exactly that...provide freedom to as many Americans as possible by providing these products at budget prices.  Plus they make a variety of receivers with different "messages" on them.
check out the link to their philosophy...
https://palmettostatearmory.com/about-psa.html#:~:text=Since%20its%20inception%2C%20Palmetto%20State,freedom%20before%20profit%20remains%20unwavering


Don't have all the parts yet, but building one in ODG, and FDE finishes for two of the boys so they can tell them apart.


I ran into a problem though......Now I need another damn safe to store all these toys. Such problems to have 


That, and I will never keep up with the ammo needs for all these.


Pics attached of the "liberty" stripped lower.  It says "LIBERTY-15" with a liberty bell and "skull" logo and the serial number is "ORDEATH-0000".  The selector switch (safety) is labeled "WE    THE    PEOPLE" They also offer a Virginia lower with the Virginia seal (modified) on it as well as many others.


I bought mine as a kit to build...because I wanted to, but you can buy a completed lower for $149 and a completed upper for $399 and just snap the two together in 30 seconds and have a complete rifle.  PSA also does sell completed rifles, but if you shop around and wait for them on sale, you can get a very good quality AR for $550


sorry for the long post....but nunya other rednecks are posting anything here.....apparently all too busy watching cars turn left. 

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I have no problem with PSA ARs... but, if the rifles are going to see heavy(normal) use I’d get a quality bolt carrier assembly and a better trigger, then replace the barrel as needed. ARs fully assembled by PSA are fine for the vast majority, which only shoot a couple hundred rounds a year through them.


just my $0.02


I still have one with a PSA carbine upper, but it’s been shoved to the back of the safe behind newer stuff.. middies

[richkrt99]

yet another chapter in "As Rich's Reloading World Turns"


shot some 5.56 this weekend.  started with my recent reloads then went to factory ammo, then back to reloads.


The first batch of reloads (23.5Gr IMR 4064 powder) shot fine (this is on the bottom end of the load data for this powder with 55Gr bullet)


The second batch of reloads would not properly cycle the rifle.  It was short cycling (well...I think).  It fired fine, well on target with no noticeable change in recoil (but it's an AR so....their ain't that much recoil to notice.)  This batch was an alternative powder similar to H4198 (FSP-80 russian made, but independently tested, certified, etc)
Using this relatively "unknown entity" I loaded at the very bottom of the load data for 4198 at 19gr  (the data says 19gr - 21gr so not a big variance to play with)
I thought maybe it was my "beloved" new PSA rifle so I went and grabbed my old Bushmaster and same result.  All the rounds appear to fire fine, but the rifle won't cycle the next round.  (well sometimes but usually not)  I checked the OAL and compared to factory rounds and load data and the length is good.  The primers are  new CCI#41.  I trimmed/checked all the brass so I know the case length is good (1.752)
I tried multiple different magazines; fully loaded, half loaded, 3-4 rounds,etc)  The magazines are mix of Magpul G2 & gen 3 and all are practically new.
The spent shells did all eject properly by the way - none hung up on ejection....just didn't cycle/feed the next round.  Pull the charging handle back and fires the next one fine...then same thing, didn't chamber the next round.  I thought something was wonky or broke on the action so it wasn't catching the next round.

I went back and looked and the powder says "similar to H4198 and Norma200"
H4198 data says 19.0 - 21.0 (and depending on the 55gr bullet found some data at 18.5gr starting point)
Norma load data says 21.8 - 22.8


I started at 19.0, but had I looked at Norma data, maybe I would have bumped it, but being a newbie....I was skeered so I always start at the bottom.
Also this is load data for .223 Rem and both my current AR are 5.56 so they can handle bit more pressure.
I've looked and nobody posts load data for 5.56.  Curious as to how much factory loads bump pressures in 5.56 vs .223 loads if any.


I did clean, trim, size, etc, and this is once fire military (5.56) brass.
I am a little surprised a published load fell short - I can only figure it has to be the slight difference in the "similar" powder.


The powder is NEW by the way.  Manufactured in 2021


So....I fired a bunch (well one at a time... a bunch is relative) in what essentially was two different "AR bolt action" rifles.  The rounds sound right, feel right, shoot right, but won't cycle either gun properly.  I had my wife and one son watch me shoot factory rounds and these reloads alternatively and they could not tell a difference in sound or muzzle flash.

The only common denominator between the two guns, multiple magazines, etc was....the ammunition (well the shooter too, but we KNOW there's nothing wrong with that guy)

thoughts....suggestions? (other than "don't buy anymore Russian powder") 

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Load a batch a tad hotter and see if that cycles the gun. Usually if an AR won't cycle a given batch of ammo the spring, but mostly the buffer are too heavy. Mo power mo better, to a point


Russian powder obviously works fine, thousands of 7.62x39 say so

[richkrt99]

Load a batch a tad hotter and see if that cycles the gun. Usually if an AR won't cycle a given batch of ammo the spring, but mostly the buffer are too heavy. Mo power mo better, to a point

Yeah, kind of what I had come down to.  Both rifles are very similar so not much help there (16" barrels, etc)


Too bad I loaded 375 of these sum bitches.  Knew I was gettin carried away, but it was a month ago and I test fired a few just fine, and it was too damn hot to be outside so I spent an afternoon loading....and loading.


So....does anyone hand load a different load for 5.56 vs 2.23?
I mean when you are trimming the cases the length is going to be the same so the pressures should be about the same....and in the same rifle the length/head space is always the same, with only maybe the shoulder of the brass being slightly different and MAYBE the brass thickness to a degree, but with mixed head stamps anyway...there going to be some variation in the brass.  I was just wondering if 5.56 was intentionally loaded hotter, and where do you get that data?


I can/will certainly work up the load a bit at a time, but was wondering if there actually was 5.56 data available (which I can't seem to find)

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I never bought 5.56/.223 dies. I can't hunt bambi(legally) in this state with a .223 and I stocked up on bulk 5.56 at a price far cheaper than I could load it at. My hornady books have 5.56 loads in them. That's why you should have multiple books from different sources


since you are now a professional reloader  , I know you have a scale. Take the buffers out of your ARs and weigh them, then buy a lighter one for this batch of ammo. Not sure I can help there, I switched all my stuff to the A5 buffer system

[richkrt99]

I never bought 5.56/.223 dies. I can't hunt bambi(legally) in this state with a .223 and I stocked up on bulk 5.56 at a price far cheaper than I could load it at. My hornady books have 5.56 loads in them. That's why you should have multiple books from different sources


since you are now a professional reloader  , I know you have a scale. Take the buffers out of your ARs and weigh them, then buy a lighter one for this batch of ammo. Not sure I can help there, I switched all my stuff to the A5 buffer system

I hear ya.  I never intended to load either 5.56 OR 9mm due to the "low cost" of ammo.  Until last year...when I jumped into this pasttime and then had to wait and fight to find enough of everything to load even one caliber.
Now I load both.
I thought about the buffer spring....not sure it's worth it for a few hundred rounds.  Then again....sure don't want to pull the bullets and start over.


thanks by the way...

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it's far easier to put a lighter weight buffer in than it is to pull apart almost 400 rounds, if it were me I'd be buying a lighter weight buffer, only takes about 45 seconds to change one


and you may end up liking that load if it works with a lighter buffer

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Rich...

one more thing, it's not a bad idea to have several buffers of different weights on hand, or just see if you can find separate weights. You can take them apart and switch the weights around to create what you need.

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out of curiosity I started looking for this 23.5 gr of 4064 load. I found it in my Speer book. The book only lists a .223

Rich, you need a hornady book. The hornady book has .223, .223 service rifle(AR) and 5.56. The basic .223 load is normally implied as a bolt gun load. A bolt action gun usually can handle higher pressures than a semi auto. It just inherent to the design. I can't find a listing for 4046 for the AR. That doesn't mean you can't, it just tells me it's been evaluated as not being a good powder for the AR. I use powders in things that aren't in the books. It's perfectly safe. With enough research you begin to understand what will and what won't work. Example A: when I started using true blue they had listings for the .40 but not the 10mm. That doesn't make sense to me so I asked around and found a guy who's well known in the industry that worked up loads for the 10 in that powder with excellent results. I was also in the process of working on a load with a 125gr bullet for a .30 carbine revolver. You can't find that combo in any book but everyone I've asked said it's perfectly fine. I even had guys I trust suggest a heavier bullet. The supply shortages of late plus the covid bullshit put that on hold for now.

When browsing forums for reloading information there is always some asswipe that has zero experience with what the caliber, bullet or powder question was but has to inject he never loads anything that isn't in the book. If everyone had that attitude we'd still be shooting black powder. What's more interesting about that is, top shelf commercial ammo is hotter than the top listing in the reloading books. In order to achieve the advertised fps you must exceed the max charge in the books. I have no doubt lawyers are at fault for that, but I've not heard if anyone blowing up their guns on a regular basis using the top shelf hot ammo. Once in a blue moon a manufacturer will release a batch that's too hot, but it's rare.

when in doubt start low and work up

[richkrt99]

Found me a 20% lighter spring and 2.7oz weight (the standard is 3.0 from what I read)
gonna try it for fun and keep playing with the loads.


I do have a Hornady book (I think)...and a Speer one (maybe I should look at them) 


The 4064 loads actually shot fine. (and I only had 1lb of that powder and its gone).....back when I first started this new hobby it was the 1st/only rifle powder I could find at the chantilly gun show that covered both .223 and .308.  Not that I have even loaded .308 yet.


It was the 4198 that gave me trouble, but after reviewing it....in a couple places, I was at the very bottom of one recommendation and .4 Grains below the bottom of another, so it will likely be fine once I work it up a bit.
I have 16lbs of it so.....gonna develop a load that works