Rich, as you get more involved with reloading you will start to get different batches of brass. Some that has been reloaded once, twice, and more, even for the same caliber. You want to keep those separated because the brass does wear out. How many times you can reload it varies partly on how hot you reload it. The most I've done is seven reloads, but I'm always towards the top of the scale. If I was putting .38 loads into the .357 brass I might go 8-10 times, but that would be it as the brass gets work hardened and doesn't seal properly anymore or properly hold the bullet. I've seen quite a few revolvers get locked up when a bullet in a different chamber moves from the recoil and won't let the cylinder turn. I buy range brass too, stuff that's swept up at the range. But only for .40 and .45, and I only use it once after a careful examination before loading. Years ago range brass was free, before they figured out they could make money on it for very little effort.
I was just checking inventory on a few things. I've got just under 10K primers and about 3500 pieces of new unused brass of various calibers in stock. Unfortunately I've only got about 4K bullets on hand. But I do have more than enough .30 and .22 caliber ammo for the revolution that the socialist DNC seems to want.
Speaking of which, well over 72 million Americans voted for Trump in 2020. That is just about 10 million more votes than he got against hillary in 2016. These same 72M Americans own a vast majority of what the batfe thinks is 400,000,000 legally owned firearms in circulation in this country. That minor distinction is exactly how the batfe says it.. 400,000,000 legally owned firearms in this country, and according to the batfe, %25 of those are the AR platform. That's a hell of a lot of ARs, and the democrats think they can confiscate all of them, without starting a civil war
10-4. I have several different batches of brass....and I DO have them separated (SO FAR). I only have new brass and mostly once fired. I had thought maybe 5-6 reuses, but I don't load very hot. Had not really thought about keeping them separated by multiple firings, but that sounds prudent. All I have reloaded so far is new (and that's couple hundred rounds .357) and 200 rounds 9mm. Set up the 9mm dies yesterday. Tried the Powder thru expander instead of belling separately so I could save a station and install a bullet feed die and still have a lockout die (which I have yet to find). I am very careful to check every single shell that it has powder. Missed one with primer thought
I was like...where the F are all these little specs of powder coming from? Have to say...setting up the little 9mm dies/bullets was bit more painful than the 357. With the bullet feeder tube...it would work about 4/5 times then not drop a bullet. I'm moving slowly so not a big deal, but kind of a pain in the butt. THe powder thru expander...meh. I never did get hardly any bell on the brass, but with 9mm it didn't seem to matter much. SO far I am impressed with the Hornady powder drop being VERY consistent. Once I have it set, I check every 25 rounds or so and it has been spot on perfect (which I imagine it should be)
I bought RCBS dies for the 9mm as it was ALL I could find (and someone else actually found them for me) I was not as happy with them as I was the Hornady 357 dies, but maybe it was the fact they were 9mm....or maybe it was the PTX I tried which extended the setup time significantly. Honestly the dies are fine....its the locking ring I don't like...it has a single allen screw in it to tighten against the side of the threads. Not my favorite. The Hornady has a locking ring with machine screw that tights across the circumference of the die body which seems better to me. I guess I could probably order some of those....since the dies are all the same thread/size and just swap the locking ring.
I will say the written instructions on the RCBS dies were a little more detailed than the Hornady instructions. I mean I watched a ton of videos previously and went back to some when doing my die setup, but if ALL I had was the written instructions....I would have had a problem. I have to go back and look, but it stated something stupid like..."and once you have the die adjusted"....but did not tell you HOW to do that precisely.
The Lock N Load concept is great and works really well. I took out my .357 set up and went to 9mm and then after a while setting them up, switched them back to 357 in 5 minutes and rechecked and everything holds true so swapping in and out is very efficient...which is what I was after. Powder has to be readjusted, but I can actually buy just a metering insert to swap in and out, but then you still have to put in the proper length spacer (or now in my case the powder through expander) which means you'd have to reset the entire powder drop mechanism anyway. I guess you could buy a separate powder drop for each caliber, but that's getting pricey at about $100 each
So the one thing I find totally asinine is the actually lock n load collets. They are the collet that has notches that basically snaps in and out of the press and the collets are threaded to hold the various dies. Great concept and I can use any brand of die but the stupid collets are ROUND with a narrow shoulder on them so when you are trying to snap them in and out there is nothing to grab ahold of. THey are smooth round narrow shouldered (sounds like a democrat...yuk, yuk). I mean I guess ONCE you have the dies threaded in and locked in place and tightened down, you can grab ahold of the die body anywhere and just turn the thing out of the press all in one piece, but when you are setting up the dies and you don't have them tight, the things are PIA to grab. (My gripe is why not put a hex shape (or two flat sides on the smooth round shape) to begin with and then you can get a grip with your fingers.
Oh...got me some 296 powder for the magnums...give me a little bigger bang for when I want it. I also bought a pound of WST which is really hot/fast powder - going to try that in the 45ACP and 9mm auto rounds....although I have load data for the W231 for both already.
I also bought some 38 special shells (and some lighter bullets) so I'm gonna try those just for fun....never shot any 38 special out of my magnum & Henry. I found 1000pcs 38 special factory Primed NEW brass for $189 which I thought was pretty good considering the price for primers now (if I could find any) I'm expecting to be able to drive tacks with the 38 spl loads out of my 6" ruger - that gun is pretty damn accurate. Although I may have to invest in a new trigger (and a gunsmith) if I really want to shoot with it. The heavy pull on that thing is a bit ridiculous
Also grabbed 1500 pcs 45 ACP - NEW primed brass for $289 which is about .19 a shell (primed). I can't hardly even buy the brass for that. Now it is Speer brass, but these are target/plinking rounds so I won't be loading hot.
Powder and shells and bullets I have been able to find...relatively speaking. It's the damn primers nobody has. That's why I bought the primed new brass when I came across it.
Learning & having fun though...which is what I was after. My wife thinks I'm nuts...."you've been in there tinkering for HOURS with that - Aren't you bored?" This from a woman who can watch back to back "Twilight" movies she has already seen....multiple times....ALONE!
Lastly....shot my "new to me" Colt 1911 Gold Cup Trophy (45ACP) this weekend. Pretty damn nice. Nice solid gun, Wilson combat trigger, mags, etc. The trigger is light - good speed shooter (like I'm a competition shooter)
. If I were flush with funds....I'd have to get one in 9mm just for fun. Plus I dig the new one out now with the blue (yes blue) grips. I think it's pretty....well, um...pretty.
Sorry for the diatribe....got carried away.
What is your preferred powder for 9mm and/or .45ACP?
