Talk about Capitals hockey & more! > General Discusion Anything But Hockey

Guns and Blowin Shit Up!

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alta:
I prefer Marlin over Winchester. I think the actions are a lot smoother and I don’t like the top eject. For such an iconic rifle I find the action too clunky. Marlin Company is only two years younger than Winchester company.


 all my Marlins are JM stamped

richkrt99:
I inquired about a JM stamp on it and never got a response...but it was day of the auction.  I only happened across the auction - friend of mine spotted the primers and told me the day of which is what led me there.  Always liked the Marlins as a kid...never owned one.  Really have no need, but what's need got to do with it?


I "read" anything up to 2009 was still Marlin...so 07 should be okay, but....not like a could see it first hand or really know what I was looking at anyway for that matter.  I really wasn't in the market for another gun...but it caught my attention.


So I looked it up and Remington bought Marlin December 07 and closed the Marlin plant by end of 08 so sounds to me like 09 would certainly be suspect (despite most saying up through 09 is Marlin ok)
Anything 07 would have been made by the Marlin guys and in the Marlin plant, and probably 08 as well.  Not sure how much inventory and parts would be built up but I'd guess an 09 would maybe have the right parts but the wrong hands assembling them (and probably retain the JM stamp if using inventory parts) so I'll keep that in mind





alta:
That doesn’t mean the first couple years of REP stamped rifles are all junk, but they should be examined hands on before buying one. The other reason I prefer the JM rifles, there are far more caliber choices. Unless someone is shooting cowboy action games, it’s damn near impossible to wear out a lever gun, no matter who makes it. Some will have a lot of cosmetic damage from years of hunting, but the internals are what matters most. As I’ve said, I got no problem buying used, and sometimes that’s the only to get what you’re looking for.

I think you’d like a .40. I prefer it over the 9mm. I’ve never been to fond of the 9, always thought it underpowered for a self defense round. Santo John Paul was shot 4 times with one, though there may have been a higher power involved. But, I’ve read the modern 9 is much improved both in power and bullet design/construction. The .40 is also one of the few rounds that isn’t 100 years old, literally. It’s a cut down 10mm, because the 10 was deemed to hard to handle for female agents(fbi), and the 10 was introduced in the early ‘80s.

Before my tragic boating accident, I had a CZ 75B and a S&W Shield in .40. Everyone that I let shoot the CZ loved it, being full size and all steel helped though. The Shield I surprisingly thought was easy to control as well, and not the snappy little POS a .380 is. Even the plastic guns like XDm and Block are easy to handle in .40.

richkrt99:
Don't know what happened...started this post and it disappeared.  Someone let me know if I put it in a random thread somewhere.


Loaded some 357 Magnum rounds yesterday - 16 gr W296 powder, new Winchester Brass, X-treme158GR RNHP bullets.
Fired a few to test them and they are pretty hot/heavy.  Shoots harder than one of the 2 factory magnum loads compared them to.  Both factory are 158Gr bullets.  THe Sellior Bellot are fairly mid range, but the Magtech boxes I have are as heavy as any 357 mag loads I've seen.  Not sure why that is, but both the flash and recoil are way heavier than any other factory loads I've ever fired.


Question:  Are yuns (who load) roll crimping 357 Mag loads?  I have a progressive press and I seat and crimp in the same station.  I don't have room to do them separately.  (1-resize, 2-expand/powder charge, 3-RCBS Lockout (checks charge), 4-bullet feeder, 5 - seat/crimp)
I believe the taper/crimp die I have is what they call a "modified" crimp which starts as a taper and if you lower down far enough eventually produces a roll crimp.  (I looked up a Hornady setup video and they called it a roll crimp)
I have never had any trouble with any of my 100's of rounds coming loose, but I don't usually load them this heavy.  It is crimped and I tried taking one apart with a bullet puller and had to hammer that thing about 30 times and it still didn't come loose but it did start to eventually move (lengthen) the bullet out from the shell.


Either I have to lose the RCBS lockout (which works great, and I really want in the setup) or I have to lose the bullet feeder in order to seat/crimp separately.  I guess I could do that but don't really want to.  It is so nice and works so well for dropping bullets.


And if my seating/crimping stations is functioning well, why do separately?  (Every forum I've read says they do theirs separately, but then most are NOT using a progressive press either so it sort of makes a little more sense?

alta:
From what I've read, people crimp separately but only because they are using a different die, a Lee roll crimp die. Supposed to be the best, but you can't roll crimp a case that spaces on the case mouth. I've always done a heavy crimp, the friend that taught me says it actually improves fps a little. And you've got to put a good crimp on magnum rounds or the bullet will move under recoil. I've seen this lock up revolvers before. I've got RCBS dies mostly, they are set to crimp as hard as possible without deforming the case. Had to burn a few cases to get that set. They got crushed. A couple fire formed out, but a couple were to bad to attempt.


My .357 load is just under 16 grains of 296, but I'm using magnum primers. They do add some oomph to the load.


One of the things that's been on my list of things to get are Lee roll crimp dies.

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